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Post by BritPete on Feb 20, 2018 13:56:56 GMT
Back to the leaky tank
I assume water is in the tank with petrol floating on it
Should we be draining and drying the tank out occasionally
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2018 14:03:17 GMT
Even back in 1996 when I owned VNP585V I noticed someone had used a filler on the tank in exactly the same region (and side) as Rich's.
Seems to be a reasonably common problem.........design flaw? I'm wondering if the earlier (flat side pre-81) tanks suffer from it more?
I think your assumption is correct, Pete - water trap, petrol lying on top.
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Post by na44superdream on Feb 20, 2018 16:00:51 GMT
The earlier tanks could well be more prone to the problem, I've got two NA tanks in storage that are in excellent shape, no dents, but both have the pin hole problem in the left rear bottom corner. lined them both with POR15. One worked, the other one the POR15 failed, never used either yet....
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Post by Somersetdreamer on Feb 20, 2018 18:01:55 GMT
I'm going to have ago at a repair next week, I have to do something as it will only get worse it's not dripping yet but damp to the touch, I will drain it this weekend & see what I'm up against when it's empty, I'm reluctant to go anywhere near the hole as if it starts leaking proper I will have to do it before I have the time to do it without time pressures, if I can get a few more years out of it then that's better than chucking it away, it's a fine looking petrol tank, such a shame it's got the dreaded rot
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 20, 2018 20:18:22 GMT
I'd have a go with epoxy Rich, it's petrol resistant & with any luck you should be able to rub down the effected area, seal it up and touch it in with paint & the repair won't be too noticeable. If you try & solder it, you'll damage a larger area of the paintwork,and mess up the liner & probably have bits breaking off & clogging the filter. You can give it a full refurb in the future when the paint's getting a bit tired if neccessary. I used araldite 'cos I wanted something 'runny' to pour behind the paint bubble, but epoxy putty would be better, probably a permanent repair.
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Post by ian on Feb 20, 2018 20:30:43 GMT
Back to the leaky tank I assume water is in the tank with petrol floating on it Should we be draining and drying the tank out occasionally I laid my 250 up last winter, drained the tank then gave it a spray inside with ACF50, put half a litre of 2 stroke oil in it & turned it from time to time while in storage. This is the tank I de-rusted with brick cleaner, soldered up the pin holes, and didn't seal/line. The winter treatment seemed to work well, the rust hasn't returned, so I've done the same this winter, along with the 400N & the 125 tanks. The araldite repaired, lined (badly) NA tank has been kept in service so I could take a Superdream for a spin over the winter.
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Post by BritPete on Feb 20, 2018 21:08:08 GMT
I'd have a go with epoxy Rich, it's petrol resistant & with any luck you should be able to rub down the effected area, seal it up and touch it in with paint & the repair won't be too noticeable. If you try & solder it, you'll damage a larger area of the paintwork,and mess up the liner & probably have bits breaking off & clogging the filter. You can give it a full refurb in the future when the paint's getting a bit tired if neccessary. I used araldite 'cos I wanted something 'runny' to pour behind the paint bubble, but epoxy putty would be better, probably a permanent repair. Ian I asssumed it would be soldered with an iron rather than blow torch am I wrong
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Post by ian on Feb 20, 2018 21:16:46 GMT
Probably not Pete! I once tried it with a mate's big soldering iron, but it wasn't man enough so I've always used a blow torch. I remember using a soldering iron heated in a gas ring in metalwork at school & that worked fine. An iron gives much more control, with a torch it's a fine line between keeping the solder soft & spreadable like butter, or a liquid puddle that runs away down hill. Even so, the heat from the iron will still damage the liner.
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Post by alfie on Feb 20, 2018 22:46:54 GMT
spare tanks should be sloshed out with any old oil mixed with parafin or desel. hang from the rear mount
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Post by Somersetdreamer on Feb 21, 2018 18:26:07 GMT
I drained the tank today so I could inspect the area where petrol has been seeping out It seems this tank has had a solder repair before I had it It's not obvious where the leak is around the repair as no visible holes, I will look into it in more detail over the weekend
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Post by alfie on Feb 21, 2018 19:37:42 GMT
has been done with a soldering iron and filed down, you can see by the proud edges. do it again with a small gas torch and lead solder with brush-on flux, let the solder run into the work area
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2018 20:35:25 GMT
I really do hate cancer. It does not only affect us human beings, but our beloved bikes too.
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Post by carlthebandit on Feb 21, 2018 22:18:25 GMT
Standard nb decals just waiting for Fungobat’s supplier to finalise the supply
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2018 22:28:41 GMT
Heard you mate....Paul too.....pushing this so so much.....hate it when things are beyond one's control.....but let us not be negative....nothing came that was worth waiting for.
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Post by carlthebandit on Feb 22, 2018 9:29:56 GMT
I would say that tanks been brazed, looks like it may be weeping from the edges. If your going to solder it I use an iron but you have to make sure it is very clean no black marks just shiny silver steel with solder flux the lead solder hold, it has on my tanks anyhow. I wouldn't use a touch you will probably just blow a bigger whole in the tank. I would avoid liners also, if they don't work they give you more problems than the original pin holes.
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