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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 13:56:33 GMT
Hi guys!
I try to remove the clutch cover - according to Haynes it is a very simple operation - screws off, clutch cable off and away it comes. Not mine - the bottom comes off, but it seems like something holds it in place on the top... Before I damagae something, is there a trick to it?
Thanks!
Gabriel
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2017 14:25:09 GMT
Make absolutely certain you have actually removed all 13 bolts- I have missed one before!
But most probably it is binding on the 2 hollow dowel pins that locate the cover? Push the cover back on until any gap is the same all the way around- then pry the top with a thin blade, I use a brass scraper if the gap is very small. The cover needs to come off absolutely level until the dowel pins are clear....
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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 15:02:46 GMT
I see. So the clutch cable mechanism can stay in place? It is all a bit strange, I suspected undone screws too, as it sounds hollow on the bottom, but normal on the top. I did try to pry eith very little force the top of the cover from the crankcase, but I did not want to force anything. I'll try your method, even if Im scared of damaging the sealing area (I guess brass helps in that)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2017 15:19:55 GMT
The dowel pins are fitted at 2 of the bolt positions- hence they are hollow to allow the bolt through.around 2 off the top bolts. One is the hole immediately above the balancer inspection plug. The other is the 4th along to the left- ACW. you will see that the casting of the lid is larger around these 2 bolts. Your cover is binding at these 2 points, try gently levering between the cylinder block and the oil pressure switch housing- there is a gap....
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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 15:42:07 GMT
The dowel pins are fitted at 2 of the bolt positions- hence they are hollow to allow the bolt through.around 2 off the top bolts. One is the hole immediately above the balancer inspection plug. The other is the 4th along to the left- ACW. you will see that the casting of the lid is larger around these 2 bolts. Your cover is binding at these 2 points, try gently levering between the cylinder block and the oil pressure switch housing- there is a gap.... There should be one, if the cylinder head would not be off  OK, thanks, I will gently pry things. Given, that the bike is still in pieces, because I broke a piston ring I will be even more cautious, as I am usually (not very ) |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2017 15:45:20 GMT
If the cylinders are off, then you can tap gently outwards directly on the pressure switch housing... Location of dowels....  |
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Post by srx600 on Mar 21, 2017 16:11:08 GMT
I just give them a gentle but firm "tap" with a dead blow hammer then gently force them off with my gasket scrapper..
I always go easy because I have missed bolts in the pasted..
The cases are normally stuck on with what seems like a vacuum force..due to the gasket sticking to the surfaces.. they will just pop off..
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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 16:19:29 GMT
Also some idiot in the past glued or welded in a large size 12 allen head screw in the oil filter retainer. I am not sure, if I want to know why, but the oil filter would have to be changed...
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Post by srx600 on Mar 21, 2017 16:24:35 GMT
dig it out and take some pis..
Till you do that you will not know how bad it is..
just could be a bolt...
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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 22:49:48 GMT
Wow, crouchy and Chris being gentle and an even push helped the clutch cover off. I am not sure if it was vacuum, or the dowels, once done correctly, it was a breeze. As the balancer chain adjustment was on limit, I relocated the slotted thing, I hope, this is OK and not putting extra strain on things. Also, the chain, that connects the tacho drive to the clutch gear is very slack, is that normal? I konw for a fact, that my rev counter was showing a lot less revs, than it should have done, but could be this the culprit? Or inproper toothing on the gear? I have seen on the cmsnl drawings, that the the gears for the 250 and the 400 are different... Bolt wise - I will have to get an allen key that big tomorrow. Will see, what I'll find, given, that the oil strainer screw was held in place with a piece of wire and silicone I am very unhopeful  |
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Post by wazzbo on Mar 21, 2017 23:09:19 GMT
The small chain that drives the oil pump and tacho drive is a slack fit, even a brand new chain is a a slack fit.
You have done the correct thing moving the balancer chain quadrant round on the splines, so long as the dot on the end of the shaft is above the 9 o'clock position when adjusted the balancer chain is still OK, if its below 9o,clock the chain is worn out and needs replacing.
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Post by szabgab on Mar 21, 2017 23:39:14 GMT
Thanks! I am not sure, I think the dot is all over the place, I will have to check tomorrow... I do not have a garage unfortunately, so the bike is disassembled in an unlit common halway, but frequented only by two families So what could cause the tacho to show a lot less revs, than it should do? I thought it is the clock itself or the cable, I sourced new ones of both (well a reclaimed clock and a new cable), and the result is basically the same...I have checked again on cmsnl, and I realised, I was mistaken - the drives, gears, chain etc are all the same on the 250 and the 400 |
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Post by srx600 on Mar 22, 2017 8:32:04 GMT
Really pleased you working out...
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Post by wazzbo on Mar 22, 2017 13:21:02 GMT
Its usually the clocks, the grease in them dries up and gets sticky.
Sometimes if you turn them upside down a squirt of wd40 around the end where the cable fits will often get them.working ok again but don't use too much,just a little squirt will soak through and soften the grease a bit.
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Post by szabgab on Mar 22, 2017 21:07:04 GMT
Its usually the clocks, the grease in them dries up and gets sticky. Sometimes if you turn them upside down a squirt of wd40 around the end where the cable fits will often get them.working ok again but don't use too much,just a little squirt will soak through and soften the grease a bit. Oh, OK, I will try that (I suppose this is just short of ripping the clock apart, which is something, I am not too happy to do. I did it in the past, and the results were worse, than beofre Chris - the bolt came out easily, and fortunately it is all OK. Somebody went into the trouble cutting off the head of the old oil filter retaining screw just below the collar and welding on an allen head instead, must have taken ages to do, but it looks like, it works. Obviously there was no gasket in the grove of the metal piece holding the filter, only one on the crancase corresponding grove, so I will have to source a new one. There is a slight oil leak somewhere, this could have been one of the spots, but the old draining screw is somewhat suspect too. I had a friend recommending to simply metal epoxy in the hole and use the oil filter retaining screw to drain the engine in te future (as the cranckcase is most likely cracked around the original oil draining spot), but that would be just too drastic backyard mechanic style, which I am not so keen on. |
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