Post by szabgab on Mar 6, 2017 21:32:16 GMT
Hi guys,
I am sure, this has been discussed before, I did search, honest, but could not find anything.
Anyway, I am in the process of replacing the valve seals, bike smokes like crazy when cold, neighbours start to dislike me - first all the revving (the choke needs some additional bursts of gasoline in order the warm up the engine and to burn off all the excessive oil from the plug) now bloody smoke machine. The bike also consumes more oil, than a performance 2T. I did thought of removing the head, take the valves off, clean everthing, put it back again, but I am not a wonder mechanic, and I am afraid, I would cock up something (messed up timing, dropping things down channels, you name it). Is it esential anyway? I know, it is very hard to say without seeing - listening to and whatever to the engine, but still... Is there any point of just replacing the seals?
In the meantime I did go on to replace just the seals, thinking I will see what that achieves (might be wrong economy). But! The intake valves are OK, bit of a hard go without the proper tools (I did buy a Chinese spring compressor, money down the drain), at the end I fabricated one, so now the intake valves' seals are done. What I can not undo are the super-bloody-stiff springs of the exhaust valves, I mean, I did try to push down on the spring (as I did with the intakes) no luck. I did hit it harder and harder with a socket, magnet and hammer combo to no avail. I am at my wit's end, as I would think, it is no use to replace the intake seals and not the exhaust ones (you migth even say, no point in replacing the seals without cleaning the damn thing).
Other thing, the rubber sealing sleeves on the two innermost head bolts had completely solidified to the point, they broke in half upon bolt removal. I did read in different places you guys sealing up (the 400n) groove and using ptfe tape over the bolts. Somebody even went ahead with putting some heat tolerant silicone over the bolt, where the rubber thingy used to be and waited it to dry. I am more than happy to try this method, but would this work? (I know, sealant down the hole would be big no-no, burst case, and so on).
Thank you!
Gabriel
I am sure, this has been discussed before, I did search, honest, but could not find anything.
Anyway, I am in the process of replacing the valve seals, bike smokes like crazy when cold, neighbours start to dislike me - first all the revving (the choke needs some additional bursts of gasoline in order the warm up the engine and to burn off all the excessive oil from the plug) now bloody smoke machine. The bike also consumes more oil, than a performance 2T. I did thought of removing the head, take the valves off, clean everthing, put it back again, but I am not a wonder mechanic, and I am afraid, I would cock up something (messed up timing, dropping things down channels, you name it). Is it esential anyway? I know, it is very hard to say without seeing - listening to and whatever to the engine, but still... Is there any point of just replacing the seals?
In the meantime I did go on to replace just the seals, thinking I will see what that achieves (might be wrong economy). But! The intake valves are OK, bit of a hard go without the proper tools (I did buy a Chinese spring compressor, money down the drain), at the end I fabricated one, so now the intake valves' seals are done. What I can not undo are the super-bloody-stiff springs of the exhaust valves, I mean, I did try to push down on the spring (as I did with the intakes) no luck. I did hit it harder and harder with a socket, magnet and hammer combo to no avail. I am at my wit's end, as I would think, it is no use to replace the intake seals and not the exhaust ones (you migth even say, no point in replacing the seals without cleaning the damn thing).
Other thing, the rubber sealing sleeves on the two innermost head bolts had completely solidified to the point, they broke in half upon bolt removal. I did read in different places you guys sealing up (the 400n) groove and using ptfe tape over the bolts. Somebody even went ahead with putting some heat tolerant silicone over the bolt, where the rubber thingy used to be and waited it to dry. I am more than happy to try this method, but would this work? (I know, sealant down the hole would be big no-no, burst case, and so on).
Thank you!
Gabriel
