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Post by daz66 on Feb 26, 2014 15:45:20 GMT
OK so I may get a little bit of time to play with the bike this weekend, in between having the kids all day Saturday (the missus is working!) and taking my daughter to a rugby tournament Sunday 9-3!!! I want to replace the muffler I cleaned a few weeks ago and retention the cam chain to see if it alleviates the rattle in the engine, the tappets have been re-set already. I have tried looking up how to do it but not had much luck in finding a definitive answer, I know it has to be done cold but do I just take out the adjuster screw crank the engine on the wheel a couple of time and re-fit or as suggested take of the rocker cover, again, and push the cam chain sleeve down whilst slackening the bolt and then re-tighten.....? Confused . com!! Any help gratefully received  |
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Post by grahamb on Feb 26, 2014 15:57:25 GMT
As you have read there are 2 ways of adjusting the cam chain .
1. is with the engine running loosen the " lock nut "(under the carbs) and after a moment the spring loaded tensioner should take up any slack in the chain , so then just re-tighten the nut.
2. If the chain has not been adjusted for some time when you loosen the lock nut the tensioner is stuck in position. So with the engine not running ,by removing the rocker cover you can manually push the top of the adjuster down to take up the slack then re-tighten the lock nut .
Hope this helps .
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Post by rich on Feb 27, 2014 10:26:11 GMT
4CfIGD6as graham says........the sprung loaded self adjuster needs some help sometimes.............but how is the chain??
when adjusted with flywheel cover off, the flywheel can be gently and ever so slightly rocked back and forth........so you can see "play" in system and chain links and pins etc............
when the flywheel is set to "t", how are the timing marks on the cam sprocket relative to cam cover gasket ( seal face, glue in seal to cover and if your fighting it to get it off or on, your doing it wrong, there is a sweet spot and it just slips on like the proverbial...... ) face??
if they are " leaning back" rather than level and parallel with the reference face, then wear etc in system...............
when chain in tension, any "lift" off of chain from the sprocket teeth??
noise from below could be the balance chain ( as well as worse) ....................any thumping noises??
see cmsnl for the exploded views and for god sake don't shear that lock nut and its thread and bolt dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
while the flywheel cover is off check balance chain adj and dot, chain is just visible thro the slotted plug hole for drwwwwp and sag etc........
new gsasket is easy to make, some cardboard ( or proper gasket paper!! ) and a pen, some scissors and the wood drill bits 6mm with the centre spike, and some patience.
get the kids involved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! one will be handy to gently rock the flywheel a tiny bit whilst you look at the balance chain thru the slot hole, unless of course you have a wind in rubber mounted neck and urangutaqng arms like me! victoria |
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Post by Philymon on Sept 6, 2016 14:22:19 GMT
Hi
Can the tensioner be changed without strip down, nut has broken on mine
Thankyou
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Post by richrich on Sept 6, 2016 16:21:23 GMT
No!
You were warned about shearing the tensioner bolt "nut"!!
Engine out and strip down, but before you do that, remove the clutch cover, clutch thrust plate, and using top gear and rear brake, slacken the clutch nut with the peg spanner.
Flywheel bolt off similar way, but use a flywheel "withdrawl bolt" to remove the flywheel. Some have used the oil filter bolt but that's not recommended, for the oil bolt or the flywheel.
Be very careful( much more careful than you have been thus far!!! ) about the 6mm, 10mm af exhaust front pipe nuts, the studs can shear, so head the nuts red and allow to cool, repeat and allow to cool a bit then hex socket and prey!!
You have stuff like penetrant, v v small grinder, small sharp chiesel, file, small hammer etc.
Be very very careful about the 4 inner head bolts!!!!
cmsnl have brilliant exploded views which will help, as will a manual.
Head off as well as genny, clutch and stuff that side, sump and main bearing carrier casting.
Steady as you go, taking your time and placing parts in boxes, ghost cardboard outlines for bolts etc.etc..
Before you strip down, how was compression test, cam timing "lean back", cam chain lift, balance chain "DOT", oil consumption,and any oil leaks??
You have a manual and torque wrench?
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Post by richrich on Sept 6, 2016 16:39:30 GMT
Don't forget about the top cam chain adjust top "anchor" bolt, the head WILL NOT come off till that is removed, its the bolt head above the cam chain adjust "locknut".
Don't know is that special adjust bolt is still available, but you can check when you are studying cmsnl views. If not available, one could be made.
When reassembling engine, fit pistons to barrel first, then using 2 head bolts and spacers, hold in place on upper c/case until you are at head refitting stage.
Why?? cos its a darn site easier and less likely to break some piston rings.
You will discover the barrel "slots" and built on seal head bolt problems. Get a plug tap ( 10mm x 1.25 pitch from memory )to make sure that the 4 inner head bolt holes and their threads are absolutely good and clean all the way down the holes!
This important and crucial.
Also avoid using any sealer in this area ( as well as some others ) as sealer down holes can make the holes "burst"!! You have been warned, again!!!!
Have fun dude.
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Post by richrich on Sept 6, 2016 16:43:58 GMT
P.S. just head off to remove the sprung loaded mech, just don't let anything fall down inside engine.
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Post by rich on Sept 6, 2016 16:49:11 GMT
god is a real PITA doing this with out logging in, cant edit etc etc etc or even pm the op!!
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Post by Philymon on Sept 6, 2016 19:12:33 GMT
Cheers guys, suppose that will teach me to be a knuckle dragging spanner monkey, just thought it may be possible to just remove the head without barrels and fish it out,
Have manual and looked at cmnsl site but I'm more familiar with 2 strokes but I'm willing to learn albeit the hard way!
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Post by noddy6598 on Sept 7, 2016 13:19:50 GMT
Can I hijack the thread...
I am rebuilding my SD and had a question about the timing chain tensioner. The manual describes 'pulling' the tensioner upwards before tightening the lock nut. It isn't clear how far I should be pulling it?
I can, by hand, pull the tensioner about half way up but no more than that. Should I be pulling it higher or it is simply to take up the slack? And how will I know if its tensioned right?
Thanks as always
Jim
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Post by wazzbo on Sept 7, 2016 13:54:50 GMT
When you pull it up that releases the tension so you can get the chain over the camshaft sprocket and locate the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft.
When you have the valve timing set correctly you slacken the lock nut and the spring pulls the tensioner blade to tension the chain, you can push lightly on top of the tensioner to help the spring a bit but don't force it down too hard, then tighten up the locknut
I assume your camchain is ok and not badly worn, if it is it won't tension up properly and pushing too hard on the top of the tensioner can overtighten the chain which will wear the tensioner blade and can also distort it.
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Post by noddy6598 on Sept 7, 2016 14:52:42 GMT
Oh I understand now thanks Wazzbo. Yes the chain looked OK and thinking about it now (I was doing this at midnight last night) I loosened the nut off before re-tightening it once I had the timing right.
If I recall however I did this with the head cover back on so can't be sure the tensioner blade actually moved and tightened the camchain when I loosened the lock nut?
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Post by Phil g on Sept 7, 2016 16:08:37 GMT
I can still move the timing chain when set on T mark, does this mean chain needs replacing? It will lift of driven sprocket a mil or so
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