|
|
Post by Cheggy on Nov 24, 2014 20:53:54 GMT
Finger tight is all it needs.
|
|
|
|
Post by jonnyboy on Nov 24, 2014 21:11:52 GMT
Would they not need to be tight to stop oil leaking out?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2014 21:13:02 GMT
They always seem to have oil there when you undo the fork bolts - strange design.
|
|
|
|
Post by Cheggy on Nov 24, 2014 21:30:25 GMT
The oil shouldn't really make it's way up that high, or at least that's how I see it  |
|
|
|
Post by Fujiwara-Ben on Nov 24, 2014 21:40:49 GMT
Since where on the topic of forks, I've just redone mine, changed the fork oil seals and fork oil. Are they supposed to be so.... well squidgy? There just doesn't seem to be much in the way of resistance when i was pushing down on them (with my hands, there not on the bike yet) Cheers Sorry for hijacking your thread Fungo..  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2014 21:41:42 GMT
It's never soaking in oil but you can see the oil is there - I've seen it on a lot of CB250/400N.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2014 21:42:30 GMT
Since where on the topic of forks, I've just redone mine, changed the fork oil seals and fork oil. Are they supposed to be so.... well squidgy? There just doesn't seem to be much in the way of resistance when i was pushing down on them (with my hands, there not on the bike yet) Cheers Sorry for hijacking your thread Fungo.. No worries mate...
Who can best advise young Ben on this one?
|
|
|
|
Post by Cheggy on Nov 24, 2014 22:25:09 GMT
Sounds like your springs may be shot Ben, you can shim them with washers or of course replace them?
|
|
|
|
Post by na44superdream on Nov 25, 2014 4:08:09 GMT
Would they not need to be tight to stop oil leaking out? The o ring on the cap bolts are the only oil seal at the top of the forks, the inner bolt only keeps the spring/damper rods in position, the load should also be on the cap bolt end via the spring retainer under the inner bolt, once the cap bolt is fully home, securing to the upper yolk (N/NA/NB models only) |
|
|
|
Post by na44superdream on Nov 25, 2014 4:19:22 GMT
Since where on the topic of forks, I've just redone mine, changed the fork oil seals and fork oil. Are they supposed to be so.... well squidgy? There just doesn't seem to be much in the way of resistance when i was pushing down on them (with my hands, there not on the bike yet) Cheers Sorry for hijacking your thread Fungo.. A few thoughts.. Springs should be 499~501mm new, if they go below 495mm long useful to shim, I would put a 3mm shim under the foot of the damper rod. What oil did you use? ATF will be squidgy, I normally like a 50/50 mix of 10w & 15w fork oil if I have it. If the cap bolts are not in position they will be a bit more squidgy as you will not have the volume of air within the forks being compressed. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 22:17:24 GMT
|
|
stevegbr
Administrator 
ADMIN
BIRMINGHAM
Posts: 10,408
mini-profile background: {"image":"","color":"2b86e7"}
|
Post by stevegbr on Nov 26, 2014 22:20:47 GMT
nice one nick. is your middle name "haynes" sSig_heeheehee_zpsaee81035
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 22:23:59 GMT
Paynes more like mate. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 22:30:45 GMT
And before any takes the p*ss out of the gloves, I need clean hands tomorrow - not ingrained with oil as I'm presenting.
I thank you - glad we pre-emptied that one.
|
|
|
|
Post by greybeard on Nov 26, 2014 23:29:42 GMT
Damn!!!  Took the wind right of my sails he has..... |
|
