bazzer
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Post by bazzer on Jun 5, 2024 13:07:30 GMT
Great blue thanks. I’ll give it a whirl. As you say, hopefully full engine temp with cure it. Thanks for the reply. 👍
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blue
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Post by blue on Jun 9, 2024 20:30:42 GMT
The 33+ years old headlight bulb blew when I brought the engine revs up and coated the inside of the reflector and glass with a grey film which took a lot of fiddling about to wipe off. I ran an extra earth connection from the frame to the connector block as a poor earth can be a reason for bulb failures; the new bulb is ok so perhaps that has helped. Fitting the last few bits and pieces (mirror, handgrips, gear lever rubber) took much longer than I anticipated but I finally was able to ride the bike this morning. I put in a few litres of fuel from a can and rode around the village to check all was well. It was, so I ventured further afield to fill up at a petrol station and then back home for a thorough look around. Only 12 miles in total but nothing had fallen off and I enjoyed my first ride on a CB400N. The engine was lively and smooth, the gearbox worked well, the handling was taut & lights and indicators all seemed ok. On the downside, the warning lights weren't bright enough & the brakes were less than impressive. The rear (new shoes) was next to useless and the front (33+ year old pads) needed a lot of 'pull' to give any decent retardation. I'll give them a bit of time to bed-in but a modern set of sintered pads could soon be on order plus some LEDs for the warning lights. All-in-all, a very satisfying result and I'm looking forward to putting on more miles over the summer.
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Jun 9, 2024 22:49:59 GMT
Looks really good! Interesting on the brakes. I just fitted new shoes on the rear of my SD250 and they are as effective as rim brakes on a pushbike! The originals which had a lot of wear worked better. Maybe they need bedding in?
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ian
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Post by ian on Jun 10, 2024 19:15:34 GMT
I think rubbish brakes & warning lights are par for the course with SDs
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Post by duffer on Jun 10, 2024 19:48:28 GMT
This tank came with my CB400N and it's in good solid condition but doesn't have the rear lower extensions for the side panel attachment grommets so I won't be using it. Does anyone know from what bike it originates? Silly question have they been cut off? Vandalism corrected.
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blue
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Post by blue on Jun 13, 2024 15:10:31 GMT
Nice job Steve.
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blue
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Post by blue on Jun 16, 2024 8:38:15 GMT
I put some LEDs in the warning lights and cleaned the inside of the lenses; the latter weren't very dirty. Now the lights are very bright, except for the high beam blue which must be thoroughly dulled by age. The photo exaggerates the white spot of the LED and I couldn't get rid of that by moving the camera to different angles but that doesn't show in real life and they look ok. Just waiting for new front pads to arrive and I'll fit those and go for the second ride - if it stops raining!
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Jun 16, 2024 9:11:00 GMT
I put some LEDs in the warning lights and cleaned the inside of the lenses; the latter weren't very dirty. Now the lights are very bright, except for the high beam blue which must be thoroughly dulled by age. The photo exaggerates the white spot of the LED and I couldn't get rid of that by moving the camera to different angles but that doesn't show in real life and they look ok. Just waiting for new front pads to arrive and I'll fit those and go for the second ride - if it stops raining! Same here, blue light would never brighten no matter what I tried.
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blue
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Post by blue on Jun 21, 2024 15:26:36 GMT
I've now done two more rides for a total of 121 miles. New brake pads eventually turned up, the first ones having been 'lost in the post', so I fitted those yesterday and also adjusted the rear brake. Rode with a friend today and found the front brake to be a great deal better and the rear very slightly more effective - it certainly made for a much more relaxing ride than the first two outings.
The engine is running nicely except for a 'flat spot' around 3500 to 5000 rpm. Above that acceleration is excellent. Adjusting the idle mixture screw doesn't make any difference to the flat spot (on some carbs the idle mixture has an effect a long way up the rpm range so that's an easy adjustment to start with). Thoughts on the next step appreciated from those more au-fait with CV carbs than me.
Apart from the carb flat spot, the only other issue is a weeping oil seal on the left fork leg. The chrome on both stanchions was pitted and I rubbed it down with 2000-grit wet and dry and then polished with a fairly heavy duty metal polish. Both stanchions were pretty smooth after that but I did recognise that there was still a risk of fork seal damage. I'll give the cleaning/polishing one more go, fit a new seal and try again. If that doesn't work it'll have to be a wallet-crunching pair of new stanchions; they seem to be cheaper than a rechroming job on the originals though I'll check again before committing.
I'm enjoying riding the machine and it is attracting some positive comments from fellow motorcyclists. I'm looking forward to solving the carb and fork leak issues,
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blue
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Post by blue on Sept 11, 2024 16:14:07 GMT
I thought it time to post an update. Despite the poor weather over the summer I've managed 305 miles on the Honda, including a few VMCC runs, and I've just recently sorted out the carb flat spot. I had 5 carb needles (jet needles in Honda speak) of which one came in a new jet kit from David Silver, 2 were original, and 2 came from the pair of carbs I'd bought off eBay. The new needle was marked D299, two others were marked 12F and two had no markings. The D299 and a 12F had been fitted but I didn't know whether they were the original size or not as I'd assumed (incorrectly) that they were all the same.
I measured the taper of each needle at 30 & 40mm down from the underside of the top flange and found that D299 and 12F were the same whereas the unmarked ones were both thinner' (more taper) at each position.
I replaced the needles with the thinner (unmarked) ones, which would give a richer mid-range, and the flat spot has gone. That was a great result and the bike is much nicer to ride as a result.
I haven't addressed the right fork oil seal weep as it's pretty slight and can wait until the depths of winter but the brakes are now pretty much run-in and are greatly improved. The front are very good and the rear is ok. They certainly give a massive improvement on the early rides and contribute to the nicer overall ride.
I'm taking the Bike on the MotoClub Indianos Columbres Rally (pre 1988 machines) at the end of the month (Sep 24) and will report back
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ian
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Post by ian on Sept 11, 2024 18:47:08 GMT
I'm taking the Bike on the MotoClub Indianos Columbres Rally (pre 1988 machines) at the end of the month (Sep 24) and will report back Loo forward to that report
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Post by duffer on Oct 4, 2024 14:35:49 GMT
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blue
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Post by blue on Oct 9, 2024 10:40:29 GMT
Brilliant job Steve; I'm very impressed. Glad you could bring it back to life. I've just returned from the MotoClub Indianos Colombres Rally in northern Spain on the CB400N. Had a great time in beautiful weather except for one day of rain. Temperatures ranged from 24 deg on the coast to 18 deg in the Picos mountains. Only 680 miles over 5 days of riding but hundreds of tight bends and many very tight and steep descending and climbing hairpins. The latter required 1st gear and sometimes a bit of clutch slipping to keeps the revs up. There were over 300 bikes, all 1988 or earlier, including lots of Hondas though no other Superdreams. The bike had a thorough workout and coped well with the only rear chain adjustment required on the maintenance front. The brakes bedded in nicely and were wholly adequate throughout. A very enjoyable trip.
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bazzer
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Post by bazzer on Oct 9, 2024 16:25:14 GMT
Wow, great pics Blue and brave to do such a trip on a classic. 😀👍👍
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blue
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Post by blue on Oct 12, 2024 8:26:54 GMT
There's a support/recovery vehicle, tools back at base and other riders were very supportive if breakdowns occurred; there were few; highly recommended. The oldest bike I saw was a 1930 Rudge with a rigid rear end, girder forks and a hand gear change. The lady rider was completely relaxed about the possibility of mechanical failure. Advice please. I looked at the drive chain yesterday to find that the sprocket spacer had essentially worn away, the sprocket was loose and so were the cush rubbers. The circle was still in place and is in good condition. The sprocket looks ok and there's no sign of a dragging and overheating brake. I've ordered new rubbers, spacer and dust cover but I can't find a diagram of the 1981 (NB) installation. Does anybody have a diagram or photo of the correct spacer assembly. Thanks.
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