|
Post by bigginger on Feb 6, 2021 11:36:08 GMT
Hey guys,
I have rust in my tank. May need replacing. Where can I source a new one? I can’t seem to find anything online. Does anyone here have the part available?
It’s a 1978 superdream 250 in black, with orange and red stripes.
Thanks so much
|
|
sdpete
Junior Member
Posts: 29
|
Post by sdpete on Feb 6, 2021 12:57:24 GMT
Hi, I remember seeing something on this channel regarding restoring a rusty Petrol tank on a Kawazaki. I don't know if the product is available in the UK or something similar but it may give you inspiration to restore your existing tank? Johnnysvintagemotorcycle "Interior Restoration Vintage Z1 Motorcycle Gas Tank Metal Rescue" www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBQX5v4FmzIThis guy is a Kawazaki 900 /1000 specialist and restores bikes to a very high standard. PS - Wondered if the tank was actually younger than 1978 as it sounds like the colour scheme from a NA model which I thought was later? Good luck!
|
|
|
Post by reversespin on Feb 6, 2021 13:15:43 GMT
Hi I know dream Machine do a complete service where they will strip tank back to the metal and carry out any necessay repairs and respray. Will cost a bit though.
|
|
|
Post by bigginger on Feb 6, 2021 13:33:47 GMT
Thanks for the advice guys. I wouldn’t mind giving it a go myself. My mechanic has warned me against crappy sealing agents out there which just don’t work, so I’m hesitant.
I’m not sure if it’s a later tank. It seems to match the colours on the plastics.
I’ll contact that place to see what it would cost. Thanks so much.
In the mean time, if anyone has a tank, I’d love to discuss buying it if it isn’t rusted.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2021 14:07:55 GMT
Had wondered if anyne has tried one of these for size ?
|
|
|
Post by bigginger on Feb 6, 2021 14:28:41 GMT
I think for a tank, my budget would be £300. I wouldn’t even want to spend that much to be honest. I’d like to do it myself but I’m worried about a crap sealant coming off and causing problems in the carbs and the tank rusting again.
|
|
|
Post by reversespin on Feb 6, 2021 17:24:08 GMT
Hi I'm not too sure about Tank Sealers especially as the Ethanol content in fuel is going up soon.
I wish someone like MCM would do an independant look at it. Having said that, some of the projects in MCM have used Rust Eaters followed by flushing the tank and then using a tank Sealer.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2021 20:08:09 GMT
I have a tank from a 400NC that I bought off eBay but it leaks! If it fits your bike you can have it for the cost of postage (about £16 I think). Fool that I am I painted the tank at some cost to me before I found out it leaked (on both sides at the bottom rear). The previous owner had covered the holes with body filler so the tank did not leak immediately and that is why I did not notice the leaks until the paint bubbled when the tank was filled with petrol. You could try out a repair on this tank and if it works use it.
Dennis
|
|
ian
Member Of The Year 2019
Isle of Man
Posts: 5,407
mini-profile background: {"image":"","color":"29908d"}
|
Post by ian on Feb 6, 2021 21:57:41 GMT
Unfortunately I've had quite a few rusty tanks I've tried to repair with mixed results. First up was my 250NB, which I got as a non-runner for restoration. The tank didn't leak - it was full of brown gunge which had a feint whiff of petrol. After draining it, I tipped in a load of nuts & bolts & gave it a good shaking every time I walked past the shed for a few days. Then I fished them out with a magnet which I ended up dropping in - it's still in there! I filled it with brick cleaner, diluted about 50% with water & left that for around 24 hours I think. Brick cleaner is hydrochloric acid, an effective rust treatment, but it flash rusts quite quickly afterwards, so I didn't fancy flushing it out with water, so I used diesel, then a bit of petrol before putting some oil in, which I sloshed around every few days. I ended up with a couple of pin holes in one of the lower rear corners ( a common leak point on SDs). I soldered these up & that was it, never had a problem with it in the 9 years since. Didn't go so well with the next 2 though, my 400N & a CB500R. I tried electrolysis with those, soldered up the pin holes & lined them with Por15. Neither tank was any use. The 500 had been left standing for 10 years on the side stand & there were pin holes half way up that side of the tank. I ended up getting a nos tank off ebay. I cut the old one in half & the Por15 hadn't coated the inside of the tank properly, flaking off on rusty bits. The 400 tank seemed ok & was leak free for a while, but after a while that started leaking too - just after I'd painted it & put the decals on then paid to have it laquered. I managed to salvage that by cutting a slit on the paint bubble, putting araldite on the pin hole & pushing the paint bubble back down to stick to the araldite. That was 6 years ago now & it's been ok since. So, I've not got much confidence in sealers, or at least Por15, but it doesn't cost much to have a go at fixing it yourself so you've not got much to loose - providing you aren't going to spend much on the paint job afterwards.
|
|
|
Post by marktrower on Feb 7, 2021 10:28:56 GMT
There are lots of reproduction tanks on the market now 10 year ago when they were coming out for brit bikes they were s**t but now are very good and very well painted there are still the s**t ones at a lower cost.mate got one for his z650 was not a straight fit and if you put the repro next to the genuine you can see they aren't the same but now its on the bike and painted its very good. The problem with the superdream is the line at the bottom of the tank and side panel.tank liners I have found the longer you leave them the more chance they work.i would give a month minimum before fuel was added. But the only way is to cut out the rot as it just comes back
|
|
|
Post by na44superdream on Feb 7, 2021 11:20:05 GMT
Hey guys, I have rust in my tank. May need replacing. Where can I source a new one? I can’t seem to find anything online. Does anyone here have the part available? It’s a 1978 superdream 250 in black, with orange and red stripes. Thanks so much If the tank is not actually leaking now, you could de-rust it (vinegar or phosphoric acid for a couple of days), clean it out, and coat the inside with phenolic epoxy. e.g. www.scooter-center.com/en/tank-sealing-kit-fertan-tapox/tx-10-285ml-160ml-3330874?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_iptM7X7gIVyrTtCh3ucgCgEAQYAyABEgJzgPD_BwEI when further on the most recent tank I did, and filled the lower rear corners (below the level of the petrol outlet, putting plastic tube through the petrol tap position in case it became sealed as well) with a petrol resistant liquid steel epoxy to eliminate the dead zone at those positions. So the tank was not leaking, then I filled the corners one by one by injecting the liquid steel epoxy, then I coated the inside of the tank with Tapox, to protect everything inside. Just to rubdown, final coat of Black, decals, and 2k laquer seal coat. I did have to rig up a small vent system to draw air through, whilst the tapox cures, after draining the residual resin out, and inverting the tank. That kit can stretch to do two SD tanks. The fun bit was dancing round the garden with the tank to spread the epoxy round the inside of the tank!
|
|
|
Post by andy1kenobe on Feb 7, 2021 12:39:33 GMT
There quite a few on the various superdream, 250n, 400n facebook groups recommending electrolysis to treat the tanks. Have a trawl through them or post a question on one asking and I'm sure you'll get loads of replies. On the factorium forum there's a bit about electrolysis too. Well worth a read.
|
|
ian
Member Of The Year 2019
Isle of Man
Posts: 5,407
mini-profile background: {"image":"","color":"29908d"}
|
Post by ian on Feb 7, 2021 20:48:13 GMT
Hey guys, If the tank is not actually leaking now, you could de-rust it (vinegar or phosphoric acid for a couple of days), clean it out, and coat the inside with phenolic epoxy. e.g. www.scooter-center.com/en/tank-sealing-kit-fertan-tapox/tx-10-285ml-160ml-3330874?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_iptM7X7gIVyrTtCh3ucgCgEAQYAyABEgJzgPD_BwEI when further on the most recent tank I did, and filled the lower rear corners (below the level of the petrol outlet, putting plastic tube through the petrol tap position in case it became sealed as well) with a petrol resistant liquid steel epoxy to eliminate the dead zone at those positions. So the tank was not leaking, then I filled the corners one by one by injecting the liquid steel epoxy, then I coated the inside of the tank with Tapox, to protect everything inside. Just to rubdown, final coat of Black, decals, and 2k laquer seal coat. I did have to rig up a small vent system to draw air through, whilst the tapox cures, after draining the residual resin out, and inverting the tank. That kit can stretch to do two SD tanks. The fun bit was dancing round the garden with the tank to spread the epoxy round the inside of the tank! That sounds a good plan John. Do you know what make the liquid steel epoxy was?
|
|
|
Post by marktrower on Feb 7, 2021 21:34:36 GMT
Rust is easy to get rid off rot is not.all i youse is the cheapest cocoa i can buy cheaper the better more sugar a handful of bolts and the builders who lives two doors down cement mixer.fill up with the pop and bolts filler cap on and ducktape over then raped up in a old quilt i have secured in the mixer you do not want it rattling about in the drum then run for about 1/2 hour you may spend 2 hours getting the bolts out but the tank will be spotless. I do not know about other flavers I was told coke and that's all I have tried and its works
|
|
ian
Member Of The Year 2019
Isle of Man
Posts: 5,407
mini-profile background: {"image":"","color":"29908d"}
|
Post by ian on Feb 7, 2021 21:52:25 GMT
Does the coke work on rust Mark? I remember dropping copper pennies in it back in the day & they came out like just minted. I tried some to clean up my 250 carbs a few years back & it did nothing.
|
|