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Post by na44superdream on Feb 23, 2016 23:05:31 GMT
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Post by szabgab on Feb 24, 2016 8:09:09 GMT
This looks promising. Would you know,if there is enough space for a larger (17t) sprocket? I am a lightweight rider and wouldn't mind a lower revving machine...
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Post by grahamb on Feb 24, 2016 12:49:38 GMT
This looks promising. Would you know,if there is enough space for a larger (17t) sprocket? I am a lightweight rider and wouldn't mind a lower revving machine... Hi If you fit a 17t front sprocket you may find the engine does not have the torque to deal with the gearing. Stick to standard gearing as Mr Honda supplied .
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Post by szabgab on Feb 24, 2016 17:25:05 GMT
[/quote]Hi If you fit a 17t front sprocket you may find the engine does not have the torque to deal with the gearing. Stick to standard gearing as Mr Honda supplied . [/quote] Yes,I understand, what you are saying but I am sure Honda created the gearing to the average standard 120 kilos Joe with a pillion on board. I am 70 kilograms and rarely take anybody with me and I often feel I am running out of gears. Given that the 250 is around the same weight but has got a lot less power, I can imagine the 400 would cope with an extra tooth on the front, but obviously correct me if I'm wrong. Size wise? Would it fit?
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Post by grahamb on Feb 24, 2016 17:49:01 GMT
I have gone back to 16t , from tried a 17t .
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Post by szabgab on Feb 24, 2016 18:33:11 GMT
I have gone back to 16t , from tried a 17t . Looking at your avatar you are not the hefty type either What about fuel saving? Did it come to anything, or the missing torque ate up all the extra rev's given benefits?
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Post by grahamb on Feb 24, 2016 18:54:40 GMT
These old things are not good on fuel at the best of times, To get the best out of them they need to rev freely, not chug along like an old tractor. When I had the 17t front sprocket fitted the engine would not rev over 7500 rpm in top, it just bogged down . I like you thought gear it to drop the revs , improve top end speed , better MPG. Wrong !!! .
Your choice of course
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Post by na44superdream on Feb 24, 2016 19:53:10 GMT
17T / 38T would more likely give you what your looking for, a one tooth change on the front alone is to big a change, in my opinion . That JTF291 sprocket looks adaptable with a hacksaw (with a new blade) and a touch up with the Dremel, to take it to 10mm thick at the centre . Don't know why I did not spot that one before! . I think I will get one and try cutting it.
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Post by szabgab on Feb 29, 2016 17:20:18 GMT
17T / 38T would more likely give you what your looking for, a one tooth change on the front alone is to big a change, in my opinion . That JTF291 sprocket looks adaptable with a hacksaw (with a new blade) and a touch up with the Dremel, to take it to 10mm thick at the centre . Don't know why I did not spot that one before! . I think I will get one and try cutting it. Yes, I bought the 291, the screw distance is 42mm as on the original. One thing though, the original sprocket has got a shoulder on both sides. Would not be an alligning problem, if you put one on without a 1,5mm of a shoulder? Also the thickness of the original 276 seems to be 8,8mm. Is 10mm-s still OK? Thanks and sorry for the amateurish questions
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Post by na44superdream on Mar 1, 2016 5:45:51 GMT
~I hope 10mm thickness is ok and I've measured it correctly, not actually run one yet, 99% confident though.
the shoulders on the 276 takes it from the 8.8 to 5.8 ish to suit a 520 chain 2/8" internal chain width. The 278 is 8.8 width with no shoulders for 530 chain. The 291 (for 525 chain 2.5/8" internal) with no shoulders is ok with your 1332 rear sprocket (0.284" or 7.1mm wide sprockets. approx).
The front alignment error is 4.4 - 3.55mm = 0.85mm, so put a couple of M6 x 0.85mm thick shim washers (plastic), between the sprocket retainer ring, and the sprocket, remember a couple of spots of medium thread lock on the M6 bolts when you put the front sprocket on.
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Post by szabgab on Mar 1, 2016 14:46:15 GMT
~I hope 10mm thickness is ok and I've measured it correctly, not actually run one yet, 99% confident though. the shoulders on the 276 takes it from the 8.8 to 5.8 ish to suit a 5 20 chain 2/8" internal chain width. The 278 is 8.8 width with no shoulders for 530 chain. The 291 (for 5 25 chain 2.5/8" internal) with no shoulders is ok with your 1332 rear sprocket (0.284" or 7.1mm wide sprockets. approx). The front alignment error is 4.4 - 3.55mm = 0.85mm, so put a couple of M6 x 0.85mm thick shim washers (plastic), between the sprocket retainer ring, and the sprocket, remember a couple of spots of medium thread lock on the M6 bolts when you put the front sprocket on. Aaah, damn, I'm an idiot. First, I can confirm, 10mm is plenty enough. Secondly, I should have disassembled the left side before grinding the front sprocket down to the 10 mm's, I have spent a great deal of time, to make it as perfect as possible, down to a 0.01 mm difference between the sides. I did not understand, what you mean by washers, but now I do. Obviously you need to turn the sprocket around, grinded side towards the inside, flat side out. Knowing this beforehand (by checking what goes where) I could have just roughly sanded the thing down and spend the remaining time with a coffee inside, rather than in the extremely cold garage cum. storage space By the way have a great one
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