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Post by gazw on Jul 5, 2020 8:56:47 GMT
I know most people complain of a spongy brake lever and being able to pull it all the way to the bars after bleeding their brakes , but Ive got the opposite problem , after changing from an aftermarket master cylinder to a original item I find the lever is too hard and too far away from the bars to be able to grab it it comfortably , I would like to give the lever a bit more play before it bites , is this at all possible to do ? or somehow get the lever closer to the bars
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Post by na44superdream on Jul 5, 2020 12:41:07 GMT
The original M/Cyl you have fitted (type ? ), the lever is touching the end of the Piston before the lever is moved? The only thing that springs to mind, is to file a mm off the end of the lever at the piston contact point, (perhaps reshape to ensure same contact area?). and put a tiny foam rubber pad on the lever (switch side of the pivot) to ensure the lever starts in contact with the piston. The pad would have to be soft enough, and sized so not to cause a jam if it unstuck in operation...
Any pics of the set up? are you sure the lever does not have a subtle bend in it?(I have a couple of those, it's not very obvious unless beside a new lever)
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Post by grahamb on Jul 5, 2020 13:31:42 GMT
Just had a look at my brake lever to see if the bolt spindle was off-set to the head that acted like a cam , but alas not .
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Post by gazw on Jul 6, 2020 21:09:51 GMT
The original M/Cyl you have fitted (type ? ), the lever is touching the end of the Piston before the lever is moved? The only thing that springs to mind, is to file a mm off the end of the lever at the piston contact point, (perhaps reshape to ensure same contact area?). and put a tiny foam rubber pad on the lever (switch side of the pivot) to ensure the lever starts in contact with the piston. The pad would have to be soft enough, and sized so not to cause a jam if it unstuck in operation... Any pics of the set up? are you sure the lever does not have a subtle bend in it?(I have a couple of those, it's not very obvious unless beside a new lever) Only thing i can think is that it is a 4 screw lid type instead of the 2 screw lid , I bought it at the time not knowing that the NB came standard with the 2 screw lid Other than the amount of screws in the lids is there any other differences in the master cylinders ?
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Post by na44superdream on Jul 6, 2020 22:16:19 GMT
The 4 and the 2 has different levers, different switches, but the operation should essentially be the same, it is the same caliper it's going to...
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