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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 23, 2020 21:14:40 GMT
Hi all, changed a duff battery tonight but all is not well, connected the new battery and the dash lights came on, but didn't last long, checked fuses etc all ok, disconnected the battery and reconnected and the dash lights come on but switching lights on etc kills power, trying to start and the starter solenoid just clicks, nothing more, opinions please, duff solenoid ?, would this replicate the problems above, advice appreciated.
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Post by duffer on Jun 23, 2020 21:50:06 GMT
I would expect to find a duff corroded earth. Check the main one to the frame on the rear engine mount and go through the others in the headlight. To check the battery, I would carefully bypass all to the starter with heavy cable just to convince yourself you have the power(Or if you are posh, use a meter). I would say that if the solenoid clicks then it works. Almost all the electrical problems I have had were corrosion based, so take em off, clean em up and try again. You may even find your old battery was fine....
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Post by bojer on Jun 23, 2020 21:52:10 GMT
I'd suggest either another duff battery or more likely and possibly your original problem a poor/high resistance connection .
Suspect it's time to make up a test lead with a 21W bulb in to try and probe where the problem lies , my first port of call would be the red power connector at the bottom of the rectifier plate .
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2020 1:02:45 GMT
I’m also going with the duff battery suggestion.
Please try that first, having been caught out with a new eBay sourced Yuasa on a CBR600 a couple of years back. Was it a genuine Yuasa? Most likely not......Honda’s and their genuine (approved) parts do not often fail.....it’s the aftermarket parts that are put on them that do, new or not.
Edit : it was failing only under load - dipping well below upon crank up.
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 24, 2020 7:30:38 GMT
The old battery was replaced as it was getting tired, I bought a yuasa battery online from Tayna batteries, charged it up and fitted it no problems, then the problems I described. I've brought the battery into work to check it, voltage is good but the load test indicates a weak battery although the tester is more for a car battery, it'll happily light up a 21w bulb, wouldn't do that on the bike, the only thing the bike will do is light up the idiot lights, sound the horn, try anything else and it all goes off, disconnected and then reconnecting the battery lead brings them back on, hmmmmm
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Post by JonnyHonda on Jun 24, 2020 7:52:01 GMT
When you say 'anything else', do you mean 'hit the starter'??
I ask because when the started is pressed, this basically shorts the battery though the starter relay to the starter motor, a fault in the starter relay not fully energizing would cause this, seized starter motor the same.
If you've checked all the earths, and the really thick red wire connector in the side panel. To me it sounds like excessive load pulling the battery down.
Test the starter motor, you can pull it and whack a battery across it's shell and terminal, with the starter motor removed/disconnected. I've starters seize before now.
With the starter disconnected you could try the start button again, does it pull the battery down again?
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 24, 2020 17:50:34 GMT
Ok chaps, viewing the problem with fresh eyes and better light I see the problem, hooked up a different battery, ignition comes on, lights come on ok, hit the starter and noticed sparking coming from the earth on the solenoid, starter motor spun but slowly, it was usually slow anyway, on closer inspection the cable, nuts etc weren't looking to clever, took it off, replaced the nuts and spring washers, papered the connector, and reassembled, the top of the threads have gone so did anyway with the bottom nut and put and extra spring washer under, hooked up the new battery and give it a go. Much success, the starter now spins twice as fast as before. I'll need to cut the earth cable back to good wire, or replace entirely, there's a replacement solenoid on the way in case I need it, hooray time for beer, thanks for the replys, much appreciated.
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 24, 2020 19:28:02 GMT
Bollocks, ignore that, went away came back, the problem has returned, grrrrrrr.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2020 21:51:13 GMT
Bollocks, ignore that, went away came back, the problem has returned, grrrrrrr. Battery.
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Post by buster on Jun 25, 2020 6:47:19 GMT
whats the earth from the battery like? it connects to the top rear engine mounting bolt, I'd make sure thats good. thugs test for the starter motor, undo the live from the solenoid to the starter motor at the solenoid end and then firmly press it to the live terminal of the battery (while holding an insulated bit of the wire) this might give you a better idea of where any problem is
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 25, 2020 18:02:28 GMT
Ok, the saga continues, replaced the solenoid, brought another battery from work, hooked up the new battery first, replaced a few ends, checked negative from terminal to various points on the bike, no resistance all good, ignition on idiot lights come on, headlights on, go for starter, nothing, changed battery fully charged same again, now the lights are playing funny buggers again, lights on nothing dash lights off, battery with the jump leads clamp onto an earth, positive to the direct to the starter and nothing, so looks like its fooked, but why would that produce the other problems?, bloody electrics, thoughts please.
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 25, 2020 18:06:15 GMT
Hmm, scratch broken starter, clamped onto a starter mounting bolt touched the positive and the motor spins, I'm stuck help.
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Post by buster on Jun 25, 2020 18:37:17 GMT
daft question, has the starter bolt got its insulator washer on the bottom?
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Post by Lord Beer on Jun 25, 2020 18:46:08 GMT
Nope, but think I've solved it, there was very slight resistance from the earth point on the chassis where the negative lead connects to, to the starter, took it off scrapped off the powder coat around it back to bear metal, cleaned the ends and reassembled, no resistance to the starter, lights work, starter engages, new battery on everything put back, seems ok, strange, the powder coating was done six years ago, maybe resistance built up over time, I shall rejoice if it still works tomorrow.
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Post by Dennismenace on Jun 25, 2020 18:54:22 GMT
Ok, the saga continues, replaced the solenoid, brought another battery from work, hooked up the new battery first, replaced a few ends, checked negative from terminal to various points on the bike, no resistance all good, ignition on idiot lights come on, headlights on, go for starter, nothing, changed battery fully charged same again, now the lights are playing funny buggers again, lights on nothing dash lights off, battery with the jump leads clamp onto an earth, positive to the direct to the starter and nothing, so looks like its fooked, but why would that produce the other problems?, bloody electrics, thoughts please. "checked negative from terminal to various points on the bike" The most important earth point is the one from the battery to the frame just behind the engine and beneath the carbs on the right hand side of the bike. The connection point is an extension of one of the engine to frame bolts. It should have a large ring connector. It is the only large wire coming from the battery negative terminal and that wire goes out behind the battery holder. Make sure the earth point is clean bare metal and the the ring connector is clean and firmly attached. Without a good earth point all the battery power will be reduced. Dennis
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