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Post by buster on Apr 24, 2020 21:33:19 GMT
Looks like Honda intended. glad you like nick, its always a bit of a gamble on getting a colour your happy with off t'internet, but its growing on me
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Post by bodie on Apr 24, 2020 21:45:38 GMT
Looks good Buster. There's something to be said for painting it; my 250 & 400N have both had the cylinders, head & cam cover vapour blasted & I'm forever having to wipe off powdery deposits. I painted the 400NA engine long before I even got those SDs & it needs little attention. good to know ian, maybe the right decision after all I think it looks correct buster like nick said as they were I did mine and am pleased how it looks like ian said just blasted and left is hard work having every thing sisal polished is better but its not cheap and some might say not correct and to shinny
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carlthebandit
Moderator
Midlands Meets Organiser
You can never have too many bikes :)
Posts: 2,403
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Post by carlthebandit on Apr 26, 2020 9:55:09 GMT
Photo of the headlight rim road rash. If you want it pm me your address and I’ll pop it in the post.
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Post by grahamb on Apr 27, 2020 14:08:59 GMT
as predicted, made a total arse of painting in the details hopefully this should go a bit smoother HI buster I am getting to the stage of painting my cases , do you know if this silver paint is petrol resistant . Cheers Graham
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Post by buster on Apr 27, 2020 15:33:29 GMT
hi graham, I'v just had a quick look at one of the cans, I cant find anything specific about petrol resistance but it does contain naphtha (petroleum) so I would think it has some resistance when cured. I'd imagine its quite hard to find a paint that would give a guarantee of petrol resistance? hope this helps
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Post by grahamb on Apr 27, 2020 15:46:32 GMT
Thanks Buster.
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Post by buster on May 7, 2020 16:09:38 GMT
feels like its been a while coming. right first job dry build of con rods onto the crank (this time with the right shells from silvers) and hooray they feel perfect then dry build the crankshaft into the new main bearing shells. this is where it started to go a bit astray, when I felt them they just didnt feel right to me, so with bad grace I bought some of that fangled plastigauge stuff. anyway after checking it with that it turns out that its within tolerance so I was (hopefully) fretting about nothing. so a good clean down of all components and I started rebuilding the bottom end. as I suspected the balance weights are a bloody fiddly job to line up and idiot me forgot to put the small guide (that clips the cam chain tensioner in) on on the first go. no big deal as the crankshaft clamp can be gently lifted out of the way to allow access.
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Post by buster on May 8, 2020 11:23:26 GMT
god I love the germans, bought these off ebay purely for the tubes, scheduled for delivery middle of next week and have just arrived. not mint but decent looking usable tubes (tops I'll eventually go stainless) for just under £60 delivered. I'll probably also rob the stickers off these and put them on my 400 forks, even if they are wrong they're just too nice not to use
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Post by buster on May 10, 2020 14:51:46 GMT
the engine has come to temporary standstill (idiot brain here lost the 15mm e clip off the end of the kickstart shaft). so moved onto the forks, fairly straight forward, strip both sets of forks pick the best bits for my bike and build one good set back up. these are actually the later type tubes with the slider bushes now removed (might have to put those in the cafe racer forks, they're like brand new). gave the alloy lowers a good polish yesterday (then got oily prints all over them today) as well as cleaning all the internals ready for rebuilding with new seals, picked the best pair of top bolts I could find and cleaned them up with steel wool and autosol, they'll do for now because lifes too short to stay in saving up for stainless ones and they are an easy enough swap on the bike.
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Post by buster on May 10, 2020 18:41:10 GMT
also this afternoon decided to have a play about with the headlight (big thankyou to carl the bandit for the rim) so cleaned the bucket up and offered up the rim, it fits ok but I reckon I can get it (gently) better, also dug some mounting bolts out that I got in a job lot. probably not the right ones for my model, but again just too nice not to use. old and new rims side by side
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Post by BritPete on May 10, 2020 18:51:58 GMT
also this afternoon decided to have a play about with the headlight (big thankyou to carl the bandit for the rim) so cleaned the bucket up and offered up the rim, it fits ok but I reckon I can get it (gently) better, also dug some mounting bolts out that I got in a job lot. probably not the right ones for my model, but again just too nice not to use. old and new rims side by side So its the left one with Patina you are going to use
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Post by buster on May 20, 2020 13:00:28 GMT
crankcases back together, NOS bolts fitted (and sump plug to please bodie ) the only niggle I have here is the m8 135mm bolt isnt available so went the bodgers (or profeshunal) route and sprayed it for now. bit naff I know but not much else I can do with the current lockdown.
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Post by buster on May 20, 2020 14:31:24 GMT
confession time. I was just about to start putting the kickstart shaft components back together when I realised I'd put the thrust washer on the wrong side of the cog (inside the crankcases what a twit). so nothing for it but cases apart again and sort it out...
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Post by buster on May 21, 2020 19:28:05 GMT
this morning I had two options, break down and cry or find someone from haynes and kick them from one end of yorkshire to the other and back again. then I remembered the third way, put the kettle on. right to the problem, it turns out I had the larger thrust washer on the kickstart shaft in the right position first time, what I didnt have on was the thrust washer (that haynes claims you can fit later, you cant it wont go over the splines). part number 10 needs to go on as the shaft is installed in the casing, needless to say its parentage has been called into question. this is how it should be fitted (I think) the rest of the components can be fitted after and is pretty straight forward, just follow the cms diagram and (eventually) job done
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Post by buster on May 29, 2020 11:22:45 GMT
bit more progress after my struggle with the kick start shaft, pistons refitted, rings nicely gapped and my new toys employed (ring clamps, had a bit of a fight with the cb450sc when I fitted the slugs) handy tip for anyone else doing this. now is a good time to pull the cam chain tensioner up and nip it in place with the nut and washer. it will make the chain an easy fit over the cam sprocket later.
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