petef
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Posts: 73
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Post by petef on Nov 2, 2018 16:46:13 GMT
OK, I spent the afternoon having a good look round and I've found no disasters (yet) It won't start so I had a look at the plugs first and the spark is a bit feeble but is there. It had the wrong plugs in so I'll get the correct ones and see if new plugs help. There is a voltage into the coil when I crank it which I suppose is good news? I don't understand the box of tricks that supply the current to the coil. The coil could be not up to scratch of course - can I check that? OK daft question - it's got comstar wheels - do they take a tube? I want to get the tyres (and tubes if needed) in hand before I remove the old ones as I need to wheel the bike around in the garage. There is a "tube type" tyre on the back which is why I ask. I'm no stranger to older bikes but these new ones are a bit different   |
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Post by grahamb on Nov 2, 2018 16:54:13 GMT
Comstar wheels are meant to be tubeless , but I have tubes in mine ( just old school I suppose).
Not had too much trouble with electrics so not clued I'm afraid.
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Post by alfie on Nov 2, 2018 19:17:34 GMT
only reverse comstars are tubeless, but can be fitted with tubes if the rims aren't any good. you have the older tubed type rims. you have a spark there is nothing wrong with the ignition, your battery may be tired, rig up jump leads from your car and then look at the spark. get it running before changing tyres. make sure petrol is getting through, dry plugs .mean carbs need looking at
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petef
Full Member
Posts: 73
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Post by petef on Nov 2, 2018 19:21:05 GMT
OK, thanks for that, tubes it is then.
It's not the battery, I have it hitched up to a 76ah battery until I get a new bike battery (which is dead)
Yes, I've not buying anything til it's running (except stuff I need to GET it running of course)
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Post by alfie on Nov 2, 2018 19:33:33 GMT
the extra voltage from jump leads works wonders
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Post by peakdreamer on Nov 2, 2018 20:35:22 GMT
Personaly the first thing I would buy is a Haynes manual, cheap on flea bay. The first thing I would do if your going to start it after twenty years years stood is change the oil first, the euphoria of hearing it fire up (probably having to rev it to keep it going on the partly blocked carbs) might be short lived if you run a bearing.  |
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Post by na44superdream on Nov 2, 2018 21:30:58 GMT
At the very least i would do oil and filter change, and check the cam chain tension, before running....
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petef
Full Member
Posts: 73
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Post by petef on Nov 2, 2018 23:20:12 GMT
Oh, if it starts it will be stopped staight away! I've already checked the oil is decent, someone has had it between me and the twenty year lay-up. I've had the rocker box off and the oil is circulating at cranking speed. I'm trying to assess what needs doing and how much to spend on it. Always a difficult exercise but getting the motor going is always number one. I've been ambling round the rest of it this evening and the frame and running gear seems sound.
Good point about the cam chain though, I'll check that (I read it can be a problem on these)
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Post by JonnyHonda on Nov 3, 2018 7:38:26 GMT
Personaly the first thing I would buy is a Haynes manual, cheap on flea bay. The first thing I would do if your going to start it after twenty years years stood is change the oil first, the euphoria of hearing it fire up (probably having to rev it to keep it going on the partly blocked carbs) might be short lived if you run a bearing. Do everything this man has just said. It does not take much to shag a bearing and the cams are white metal to steel. |
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Post by na44superdream on Nov 3, 2018 8:04:08 GMT
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petef
Full Member
Posts: 73
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Post by petef on Nov 3, 2018 8:42:20 GMT
Thanks lads.
The oil pressure light is coming on and then out after a few seconds at cranking speed.
There is abundant oil getting to the top end at cranking speed.
The oil is clean.
I will address the camchain before proceeding though.
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Post by peakdreamer on Nov 3, 2018 11:12:14 GMT
Cam chain  |
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Post by peakdreamer on Nov 3, 2018 11:21:01 GMT
Oh this one as well   |
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Post by buster on Nov 3, 2018 13:11:04 GMT
lots of good advice here, with reference to the coil, about the only thing you can (supposedly) check is the resistance (unless you have a very specialised workshop) I’m not sure if the haynes manual gives a figure for this (not used my nice shiny manual too much, yet...) but if I’m honest I tried this with my kwak and ended up none the wiser. I’d find a plug that you know to be a good un and check the spark with that (if it sparks good in say your lawn mower it should spark the same on your bike) I’ll add that its only a test you only need to put it in each plug cap and see what it does. if you still think the sparks weak I’d have a look at the obvious and simple first, for instance un bolt the coil and have agood clean to ensure a good earth and check any obvious electrical connectors. its amazing how often something small and easy to sort can cause a major problem.
just to add if its sparking (at the right times) then chances are the cdi is doing its job and is hopefully ok
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Post by bluedreamer on Nov 3, 2018 17:00:52 GMT
Probably a good idea to get rid of any old fuel in the tank and give the fuel filter a clean as well.
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