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Post by buster on Jul 28, 2018 16:19:11 GMT
yeah the problem is most wheel builders just want to strip out and respoke the wheel and it doesnt allow me to titivate the hub and rim, so I’v probably made my own life difficult but the plan is to fit the new stainless spokes and nipples in loose with the correct pattern (thats easy to say, bet its its a damn sight harder to do) and hand it over to a proper wheel guy to tighten and true up.
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Post by buster on Jul 29, 2018 10:16:01 GMT
just thought I’d pop a couple of pics on of the rim and hub freshly painted after bead blasting (mr FB will no doubt approve of the colour, well maybe). it might sound crazy but these were done from a rattle tin set off ebay, its not that I cant spray with a compressor its purely lack of room and set up time, youve basically got 20 to 30 minutes or so from blasting to getting a coat of something onto the parts and daft as it sounds I think the rattle cans are easier for this reason even if shaking the ruddy things properly means you end up with one arm like popeye
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Post by bodie on Jul 29, 2018 10:39:15 GMT
looks great buster
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Post by stevie on Jul 29, 2018 11:30:00 GMT
Good job buster, did you etch prime it before colour?
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Post by buster on Jul 29, 2018 13:25:36 GMT
yep came as a kit with self etch primer, paint and lacquer
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Post by stevie on Jul 29, 2018 13:30:13 GMT
Good lad.
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Post by buster on Aug 27, 2018 13:50:28 GMT
next job to tackle is mounting the tank, the cb450dx tank seems a bit bigger than the standard superdream item but for this bike I like the look of it, its not quite so squared off as the superdream standard item and should suit the look I’m trying to achieve. so first thing to do was make a new rear mounting bracket (see bargain welder thread) and after welding it on I then had to drill it and weld a captive nut to the underside, tricky job for a novice welder like me. I am happy though with the way its sat as it retains the original mounting rubber and the lines at the front of the tank align reasonably well (if you squint a bit) with the angle of the forks. the next headache was the handlebars colliding with tank so to correct that I had to restrict the steering lock a bit. this meant carefully measure where I wanted the steering stops, cut out a couple of bits of 6mm steel and carefully weld them in place this should make 3 point turns into 15 point turns but hey I’m not exactly building it for practicality, its hopefully going to be fun, the next slight problems hard to explain, as the bottom yoke turns it moves through different planes and the radius top side then fouled on my new stops (b*ggrit!) so had to take the bottom yoke off yet again and carefully grind it back until I had a nice clearance. but when all these little bits were sorted the bars now no longer crash into the tank (hooray) and theres a nice safe clearance from the new stops to the bottom yoke.
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Post by Somersetdreamer on Aug 27, 2018 14:32:57 GMT
victoria You will be a expert welder soon, great that your getting stuck in & not to scared to experiment
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Post by buster on Aug 27, 2018 15:41:46 GMT
dont know about expert welder, I’d say passable (maybe) with a bit more practice and I certainly wouldnt have the confidence to start welding really serious bits like suspension mounts but all in all an almost productive wet bank holiday weekend.
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Post by buster on Sept 15, 2018 15:06:18 GMT
some wheel bits and pieces have arrived, notably new bearings, seals, cush drive rubbers and the cream to finish this job off the stainless spokes and nipples. what I have just spent an afternoon learning is that spoking a wheel really is a skilled job and its very easy to get wrong and pretty hard to get right. I started with the inner spokes (I now have a full understanding of why wheel builders want a good photograph) these took about 4 attempts to get right but once you get going (with the spokes in the correct position on each side) it is just a methodical process (it involves lots of profanity and quite a bit of telling nosey buggers looking over my shoulder to stop standing in my light ) and should anyone ever wish to try this for themselves (not too likely with comstars I know) there is good news once you get the inners in and in the right place the outers are pretty easy to do. all I’v then done is gently tighten the nipples up a bit ready to hand over to a pro for final tensioning and trueing up.
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Post by wazzbo on Sept 15, 2018 17:35:06 GMT
Nice job buster,they take a bit of lacing up don`t they. I`ve rebuilt the front wheel on my Tl125 I`m glad I had another one to look at to copy the lacing pattern.lol Once I`d got the spokes in it wasn`t a bad job to true up and get the offset right, its only a small offset on the front wheel, the rear might be another matter altogether as it has a bigger offset. I bought this a while ago for balancing my wheels when I fitted new tyres and it is for truing wheels up as well.
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Post by buster on Sept 16, 2018 7:21:08 GMT
good bit of kit that, it can be difficult getting them to spin free enough in the swingarm/forks for balancing and I like the idea its dual purpose for trueing up
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terryc
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Post by terryc on Sept 16, 2018 18:05:26 GMT
Good work there buster I've only done this job at push bike level and thats a nightmare so hats off to you
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Post by BritPete on Sept 16, 2018 18:46:25 GMT
Hats off Buster dont think that I would attempt a wheel
We have a local guy up in Milton Keynes that has been building wheels all of his life, believe he in in his 80's now, his shed are like a time warp
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Post by buster on Sept 22, 2018 16:04:41 GMT
note to self, dont just photograph one wheel and think that’ll do, photograph both wheels doh! what an afternoon of aching knees (must get a work bench) and much questioning the parentage of inanimate objects, still questioning my own sanity but at least both wheels are now resplendant in their new spokes. so off to the wheel builder for final trueing up and tightening next week (hopefully).
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