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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 17, 2016 16:12:18 GMT
hello from greece i am rebuilding a friends cm250 the bike was dead in the street for 5 years... we did a complete paint job and now i am working to start te engine.. here what i have done already to the engine : disasembled the uper parts cylinder and head.
cylinder head has new seals and valve grinding
cylinder was checked and only new piston rings installed
new camchain and tentioner.
my problem is that i cant find any info to check few things because the bike won't start... spark plugs:dr8es ? compresion: ? does anyone know stator values? it has 3 yellow wires(charging) and one 2pin plug with white and blue wires and one6pin plug with 3wires green ,light blue and red. the 2pin and 6pin goes to the cdi.
sorry for the long post and thank's in advance paul.
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 18, 2016 19:11:57 GMT
Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. When you get to 20 posts, you can access the 'Manuals' section, which may help. Maybe introduce yourself in the 'Welcome' section & post a few pictures of the bike? You'll soon get there! In the meantime, you're correct with the spark plugs. Compression? One of my bikes has been rebored with new pistons & rings and gives 165psi on each cylinder, but the other bike only had 100psi on one & 120psi on the other last time I checked. It cranks over a tad longer before starting from cold, but instantly when warm & runs fine, so I think the compression would have to be pretty poor to stop it starting. The charging wire from the alternator should have continuity between them, but no short to ground on any of them. The connectors to the CDI are the fixed pulsar and the advance pulsar - generating the spark & controlling the ignition advance, so it's important they're good. There's also a single wire connected to the CDI via a bullet connector - black & white, I think - which goes to the kill switch. It's worth disconnecting this in case there's a problem with the switch. You didn't say whether you had no spark, or it sparks but doesn't fire up? Carbs are known to give trouble when these bikes have been standing unused a long time. Good luck!
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 19, 2016 4:58:12 GMT
thank you for the reply. i will post many pictures from the bike in the weekend i have a lot.. i have made some progress!!! its runing... i checked the conections again and cleaned them one more time.. i know about the vb nightmare carbs!! the bike started ,not easy but i can get idle.. it works ok if idle screw is about 2000rpm. if i start lowering idle it stambles and stalls.. ps. to start the bike i had to "help" the slides open with my fingers
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 19, 2016 16:15:25 GMT
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 19, 2016 16:48:30 GMT
i checked the timing yesterday ,the advance from 2000rpm to full throtle is ok. i didnt work in the bike much today because we had a busy day at work.. but i did check the plugs defenately too much fuel... are the plugs so important?i have been searching about them in the web, when i fist disasemble the carbs for cleaning, but others were saying that its not important to have tight fitting because the bowl holds them in place.. i have removed the press in slow jets and cleaned them and all passages in the body where also cleaned.. ps. the jet are a real nightmare to remove!!!
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stevegbr
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Post by stevegbr on Feb 19, 2016 16:57:33 GMT
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 19, 2016 16:58:44 GMT
I'm no expert on carbs, but my understanding is that those jets get fuel from a small drilling to the adjacent jet housing, and not the float bowl, so the rubber bung needs to be fuel tight, so yes, I think they are that crucial. Maybe someone else will come along & confirm? (He said hopefully!)
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Post by wazzbo on Feb 19, 2016 23:12:28 GMT
Yes ian you're correct in what you say, I'd always replace the bungs when I prepare carbs that have been stood for years.
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 20, 2016 14:58:49 GMT
so the rich condition in the plugs could be caused because the rubber plugs are like stone and don't seal the hole?
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 20, 2016 19:57:16 GMT
The short answer is yes, but there's lots of posts on here from people who have cleaned (including ultrasonic) their carbs several times before getting the bike running properly, so you can't rule out a blocked jet even after cleaning the carbs
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 21, 2016 8:40:00 GMT
do you know any way to remove the idle jet? and where can i find new? rebuild kits have them?
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 21, 2016 11:52:00 GMT
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 22, 2016 19:20:47 GMT
i have removed the pilot jets when i cleaned the carbs because the where completly cloged...
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Post by paulgarbis on Feb 22, 2016 19:22:47 GMT
the ruber plug is hold by the bowl but won't stack in the hole..
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