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Post by dbamsey on Apr 5, 2015 17:30:56 GMT
Took the SD out yesterday for blast and bought some Auotsol and also Silvo. Got home and began polishing when I noticed where the tank meets the side panel a bit of paint rubbed away. But on closer inspection, I realised it is actually where fuel is leaking through a pin hole. I drained the tank which was full to the brim and in the panic of it being bank holiday I went to the bike shop and bought petseal. Now once I read the instructions I realised it takes a about of week of curing and after reading various threads on the net, Petseal doesn't appear to have good reviews and results. I've read about a product called POR-15 which seems good, so have I wasted 20 quid on a product that I might not use? Anyone got any experience with either Petseal or POR=15. I have a spare tank I can use, its a bit ropey on the outside but doesn't leak so at least I can ride even if the colours don't match.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2015 18:20:57 GMT
I think the problem with petseal is that it cannot cope with the amount of ethanol in the petrol these days.....which begs the question, why are they still selling it?
Did you get a receipt?
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Post by na44superdream on Apr 5, 2015 18:21:29 GMT
Never tried Petseal but give it a go! (manufactured recently?)
Used POR-15, forms like a plastic bag inside the tank, worked on one tank, but on the other it sheeted off the inside. Good for sealing pinholes.
The main effort is derusting the internal of the tank, takes me hours.
Where there is no pinholes and the tank is sound I've coated the inside of a couple of tanks with Tapox, quite a good product. (Thick primer red coloured epoxy paint)
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ian
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Post by ian on Apr 5, 2015 19:45:16 GMT
I'd seriously recommend having a go at soldering up the pinholes first. Once you've applied petseal, por-15 or whatever, any subsequent soldering will mess up the inside. I soldered a couple of holes in my 250NB tank 2 years ago, didn't use any sealer & it's been fine. I soldered a few hole in my 400NA tank a few months ago and sealed it with por-15 as well - just to use up what was left over from sealing my CB500 tank. I've done a couple of tests & it's ok, but not used it in anger yet. The CB500 tank is another story. I reckon I've soldered up close to 100 pinholes. Every time I did a few, I filled up & found a few more. When I finally thought I'd finished, I sealed it with por-15 as extra security. I filled it up with petrol 3 months ago & I've done about 300 miles with no leaks until Thursday. I drained it & left it, finally having a look today. I'd painted the underneath with hammerite & you can see where the leak has reacted with the paint. I also found a couple of bubbles that looked like future leaks! All 3 are in areas where the tank is very narrow, so maybe the rust treatment wasn't very effective here & the por-15 didn't coat/stick very well & eventually broke down. Clearly, this tank is beyond saving, it's just that I haven't been able to find a replacement at a decent price yet. From this experience, I wouldn't rely on any sealer/liner as a repair for leaks - soldering the holes up is the only way. I would use one as an extra level of protection though, but next time I might try this, which was recommended on another forum. www.rust.co.uk/0003-slosh-ethanol-resistant-tank-seal-kit/p413135/# |
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Post by dbamsey on Apr 5, 2015 19:55:34 GMT
The trouble with soldering now is Ive only just resprayed the tank from bare metal (yes I Know, maybe I should have been more thorough with the inspection when it was stripped) so I'm reluctant to put heat anywhere near my paintjob especially as it took me weeks to do. The leak is in a position where its not noticeable so if tank sealer does fail I have a 2 part metal repair kit that I know will stop the leak but give a rough finish on the tank. I think I'm going for the POR-15 kit so it gets done properly and fingers crossed will be permanent.
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Post by ian on Apr 5, 2015 20:05:56 GMT
Well the por-15 has certainly stayed well stuck to the bits of the tank I can see, so I think it's down to poor adhesion due to rust. There was no rust left in the visible areas, but who knows what was left in the nooks & crannies! The 20 year old CB500 tank was far rustier inside than any of my 30+ year old SDs.
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Post by hondapartsman on Apr 9, 2015 6:38:59 GMT
I must admit I have no personal experience of tank sealers, although I've read many experiences of others in various classic mags who have had problems with petseal but then used other products like por15 or a sealer from a place that specialises in restoring tanks the name of which excapes me right now.
When my RS tank started to leak as the back I tried several things externally to seal it, none worked long, I ended up with a better tank from e bay, which was handy too as the bike got knocked down at work and got a big dent in the side.
I found white vinegar coupled with a good handful of nuts and bolts rattled around inside over the course of a week or so worked well on my CL tank, after it had been sat for close to 30 years with only a little old fuel in. I took a chance on not trying sealer as money is always short. It seemed okay last time I looked inside but it's been sitting in storage for a few months now and I've not had much chance to check on it. Hopefully I'll not find any woes when I get over to where it is to look at it.
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Post by stevie on Apr 9, 2015 9:17:24 GMT
Solder repairs i think are the way forward for pin holes, gently tap the metal into a dent then solder your pin holes then reshape with filler. Hammerite do a deruster which you mix 10 to 1 with water and it really works, fill your tank with it and leave for 36 hours.
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