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Post by Versaldean on Sept 17, 2014 16:41:02 GMT
Hi, I'm having an inconsistent problem with my speedo. At first it seemed to work just fine but having replaced the fork seals it now refuses to work for long. I've whipped out the cable inner, inspected it and greased it and all seems well. I think the problem must lie in the mating of components 8 and 17 in the image below (reused from stevegbr, hope that's alright). I alight the 2 male/female parts really carefully and test that the output rotates with the wheel off the bike. But by the time I've secured the spindle the cable will only rotate sometimes, it particularly doesn't like higher speeds (ridding down the garden). Has anyone had difficulties here before and can offer advice? Is there a particular component which could be loose or damaged? Cheers  |
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Post by grahamb on Sept 17, 2014 17:14:21 GMT
Hi I seem to remember I did have a similar issues with my speedo drive but it was a few years ago. The item 8 if I remember needed the tweaking as in bending out slightly on the centre lugs to engage in the opposing slots .. Hope I remember it correctly.  |
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ian
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Isle of Man
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Post by ian on Sept 17, 2014 19:15:01 GMT
I had the same problem on my 250. I was going to fabricate a washer to go behind item 8 (IIRC), but I got one off ebay instead. I kept the faulty one to repair & keep as a spare, but it's in my growing 'jobs to do' box...  |
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Post by stevie on Sept 17, 2014 20:27:15 GMT
I had the same issue with mine, i tried washers and bending the tangs on item 8 but like you it worked for a bit then stopped, then i left the right hand side bottom of the fork clamps loose, there is a cut out on the right hand side of the spindle where you can hold it with an open ended spanner cant remember what size, then while holding the spindle i tightened the castle nut and then last job was tightening the fork leg clamp, it sorted the problem for me, it might have closed it up enough for item 8 to engage correctly so the speedo drive worked, i may have been lucky i dont know but it is worth a go, good luck
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Post by rich on Sept 18, 2014 14:29:15 GMT
if you are not careful when replacing the front wheel into the forks, the "drive dog" ( 8 ) in the wheel will be bent by the dog gear in the speedo drive unit, meaning that the seal ( 17 ) has to be removed to sort out the bent drive dog.
offer up the drive unit to the wheel and check to see that it lines up with the dog drive and drives, before fitting the wheel, checking whilst doing so.
also the drive unit has a "pip" which may sit in a "slot" on the fork leg, with some only having a "peg" on the fork leg which butts up against a pip on the drive unit. be carefull as these drive units can be broken by careless fitting. see cmsnl for the exploded view, gear dog and thin thrust washers. |
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Post by Versaldean on Sept 18, 2014 18:25:00 GMT
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'd tried a few of them already but had another look digging deeper. There was damage to the drive dog (8) which I was able to bend back. It is very soft so easy to bend.
It looks promising for now but hopefully I can test it at speed tomorrow once a new oil pressure switch arrives (that's a faff to change!).
Thanks again.
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Post by rich on Sept 19, 2014 9:45:22 GMT
blast out the engine area by the oil pressure switch, as it cover ( the clutch cover ) fills with crap which drops all over the crank gear.......when the cover is taken off.
whilst the clutch cover is off ( really soak the exhaust nuts in penetrant so they don't shear the exh studs, if they are difficult, use heat and quench with water ( thermal shock ) and try using water as a lub as the corrosion is water based,, what ever you do DONT shear the STUDS ) split / grind the nuts ).........
cover is off, think about flushing the engine sump of its crap, the k/start oil trough also.
the clutch basket tends to act as a centrifugal crap trap, so its the ideal time to clean that also.
how is the clutch "nut"..........has it been chiseled off before and is it tight? machine mart do a "peg spanner" tool for Honda clutch nuts etc.....2 sizes on the tool but driven by a tommy bar but could be adaptaed for a socket so can be torqued to the proper value, see pdf manual for torques and exploded views...........the clutch nut goers back with the chamfer face to the "outside" washer.........any sign of the engine been split before?? see the sealer line tween crankcases.......take your time and enjoy.
note,when oil sw is out, have a good look in the hole for crap/bits/blockage...........and whizz the engine over ( ign killed ) so that oil comes out the hole proving it aint blocked etc........good oil flow that side in head/cam area?? |
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Post by Versaldean on Sept 19, 2014 10:44:23 GMT
Rich
The exhaust has been off a few times so the nuts are ok.
To be honest I wasn't sure if the switch was at fault or if the pump is failing or if there is a leak in the high pressure circuit. The warning lamp was coming on most of the time once the engine was hot but sometimes will go out if you go to high revs.
The switch is the easiest to check 1st.
Regarding your other suggestions, for cleaning the clutch basket, do I need to open up the clutch to do that? The clutch nut looks in good order but I will need to get a tool to check its tightness or remove it. Any idea what to ask for at Machine Mart? Peg spanner gets no hits.
I don't think the crankcase has ever been opened.
I have whizzed the engine over (briefly) after removing the final drive cover and no oil emerges. Of course I have removed most of the oil before taking off the cover, but should it be coming out. Or do you mean I should replace the cover without the switch in place, refill with oil and whizz it?
The oil looks a bit dark (considering it's only been in for about 60 miles) but there are no solids in it. The bike had been stood for years when I got it and the oil had emulsified so I flushed it through 3 times before trying to ride it.
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Post by rich on Sept 19, 2014 13:43:14 GMT
so the oil light comes on ( flashes or stays on ) when the engine is at idle and hot........what oil are you using??
with the clutch cover off and some oil in the sump, oil switch removed and whizz over with ign killed, you will see the oil spurt out ( maybe gush, gush, gush rather than steady stream ) proving the oilway to the sw is clear. If you look in the hole you will see the bottom of the oil jet with its 5 holes, one thro the centre and 2 cross drillings. Any crap here will tend to want to block the jet...........
when assembled with the cam cover off, there should be steady oil flow to the sw side of the cam as well as the other..........oil way is up the rear outer head bolt tunnels, one per side to the rear of the cam bearing. there should be good continuouse oil flow when the engine is whizzed or running ( oil everywhere with camcover removed and eng running, lots of oil.
the clutch "nut" is below the clutch lifter plate, with the bearing in the middle and 4, 6mm ( 10mm spanner size ) bolts.
to remove the clutch basket, the lifter plate has to be removed to get to the "4 slot nut"...........back in a bit with machine mart info
ok couldny ( In library on internet and book on kitchen table at home, no internet at home ) find the info on the peg spanner, I was looking in a machine mart catalogue yesterday window shopping and I saw it there, 2 sizes but I don't think they mentioned the sizes in the book................pt. no. 040214267 may fit the flywheel hub for extracting the flywheel but don't know the size and pitch from memory £17 and fits many flywheels so a good buy.........as to peg spanner will look again. back in a bit... |
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Post by Versaldean on Sept 19, 2014 14:01:37 GMT
Well the speedo is definitely working now but I'm still worried about the oil pressure.
I tried to find a tool at Machine Mart to remove the clutch nut but the guys in the shop weren't much help and the best I could find was a brake caliper tool. I think it would work except the tines would need to be longer. I cleaned what I could get at without removing the nut.
The oil would pour out of the switch hole with the engine running so it's definitely not fully blocked.
But, having fitted a new oil pressure switch, the lamp is still on most of the time once the engine is warm.
I think I may start a new thread to ask about the oil issue specifically.
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Post by rich on Sept 19, 2014 14:25:13 GMT
just had a good look on line but its defo in the book, will be back sat morning with a pic and part number.......its in the book.
so, is the engine making a knocking noise down below and what oil do you use......?
an oil pressure gauge would be usefull here but is difficult to get a gauge into the system ( via oil filter bolt modification ) .....I presume you changed the oil filter?? check exploded views to see what goes where, cover then spring then thin washer then filter then fit. oilm filter bolt hasd a blocked filter by pass valve which is ok??
if clutch cover is still off you can see the oil pressure regulator valve, cbt it sticks out sideways under oil pump, cbn it sticks up inside, close to the oil pump and above the oil filter housing.
at idle (with plenty of oil so it don't run out ( oil system ) and suck in air ) and running, oil every where and watch your fingers, sleeves, tie ( you shoudnt be wearing a tie !!!!!! ), if engine revs increased slightly there should be no oil ouuuusing out of the oil pressure relief valve holes ( 2 holes ) but if revs increased to say 3 to 4 k, then oil pressure should regulate by then and oil will be seen coming out of the holes.....a sprung loaded piston affair similar to the blocked oil filter releaf valve......is the spring ok?? or broken? ?
is the oil pick up screen in the sump clean.....just visible thru sump plug hole.......
if bearing problems ( slack so oil pressure lost/low when hot ) you will need the clutch peg spanner and the flywheel tool ( I obtained a bolt for the flywheel extractor, oil filter bolt is same size and thread but not that good a fit on the crank, could cause real problems if it goes wrong!! ) .
oil light shows low oil pressure when hot at idle...........what oil are you using?
if bearings slack and engine hot at idle the oil light may flash but should be off all the time above say 1500 to 2k revs..........the oil light wire is ok and not touching metal ( earth, so light comes on??)
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Post by Versaldean on Sept 19, 2014 15:39:38 GMT
I feel I should keep threads on the title topic in case anyone has similar problems in future, so I've replied to your latest post in the new thread.
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Post by garethp on Aug 8, 2016 23:08:27 GMT
Did you ever fix oil pressure issue?I'm having same problem.
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Post by rich on Aug 9, 2016 9:10:00 GMT
none of you "true sd enthusiasts" made an oil pressure gauge for an sd yet? twt twt twt. however if all is ok with the lube system, then I suppose the oil pressure sw is your pressure gauge then? 
as stated, careless front wheel fitting bends the tin drive dog, and "cracks" the alloy speedo drive, so be warned! |
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