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Post by na44superdream on Feb 7, 2021 23:18:11 GMT
e.g. www.scooter-center.com/en/tank-sealing-kit-fertan-tapox/tx-10-285ml-160ml-3330874?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_iptM7X7gIVyrTtCh3ucgCgEAQYAyABEgJzgPD_BwEI when further on the most recent tank I did, and filled the lower rear corners (below the level of the petrol outlet, putting plastic tube through the petrol tap position in case it became sealed as well) with a petrol resistant liquid steel epoxy to eliminate the dead zone at those positions. So the tank was not leaking, then I filled the corners one by one by injecting the liquid steel epoxy, then I coated the inside of the tank with Tapox, to protect everything inside. Just to rubdown, final coat of Black, decals, and 2k laquer seal coat. I did have to rig up a small vent system to draw air through, whilst the tapox cures, after draining the residual resin out, and inverting the tank. That kit can stretch to do two SD tanks. The fun bit was dancing round the garden with the tank to spread the epoxy round the inside of the tank! That sounds a good plan John. Do you know what make the liquid steel epoxy was? i think it was this one (note that there is the putty A version as well, which is to thick) I'm trying to find where I got it from. Used a big plastic syring, with 6mm clear plasic tubing had a guess at the volume, set the tank a bit nose up and to the left side down so it would hopefully puddle just up to the fuel tap position. needs . left it in that position more than a day. Temp has to be 10C+ Need a lot of mixing before filling the Syring. I think ithe plastic tubing was taped to an old arrow to get the discharge to the corner... Devcon Plastic Steel Liquid (B) Epoxy Liquid 500gm Kit
itwperformancepolymers.com/media/10854/tds-plastic-steel-liquid-b.pdf
Then reposition to do the right corner if desired
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Post by marktrower on Feb 8, 2021 14:05:11 GMT
hello ian was told about cocacola a long time ago i was a sceptic till i tried it and works fine.as i say there is a difference rust is not rot ,putting resin and filler over rot all you are doing is hiding the problem.spent 40 years welding all types of vehicles some restored to a very high standard in there eyes.worked on some cars they must have had a plasterer to apply the filler.rot does not go away like cancer the only cure is to cut it out.if i can get a tank at a reasonable price i am on to it but now i am putting the time in to repairing them ,repaired two in the last 6 months a yamaha srx400 and a spare honda cb77 tank,the yam tank are impossible to find and there are three variations and tanks for a 60 year old honda are all rotten in the uk .i will take the chance at £50 but not £300 ,£400 that type of wonda its worth my time,there are lots of good rust neutralizers if your going down the filler road they are good and work .i now keep my bikes and do not want to spend £200 on a tank respray for it to bubble up after a couple of years then to do it again.i found out years ago there is no quick fixes and magic paste just a way of hiding a problem that will come back
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Post by bigginger on Feb 8, 2021 23:47:48 GMT
At this point I’m unsure how bad to problem is. Perhaps I should hold off selling my CBF1000 until I know. I’ll have to check for leaks and visible rust from the outside but I do plan on using this www.frost.co.uk/por15-motorcycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit/So I can attempt to fix the issue. At a cost of just over £50, it’s worth trying. I truly hope I have a tank that’s not rotting. I don’t have the know how to fix it. I would consider a replica or near replica tank and have it painted. If that wouldn’t break the bank? I’m assuming it runs into the hundreds and then the tank will cost at least £100 too. Why is our hobby so damn expensive!??
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ian
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Isle of Man
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Post by ian on Feb 9, 2021 21:58:56 GMT
That sounds a good plan John. Do you know what make the liquid steel epoxy was? i think it was this one (note that there is the putty A version as well, which is to thick) I'm trying to find where I got it from. Used a big plastic syring, with 6mm clear plasic tubing had a guess at the volume, set the tank a bit nose up and to the left side down so it would hopefully puddle just up to the fuel tap position. needs . left it in that position more than a day. Temp has to be 10C+ Need a lot of mixing before filling the Syring. I think ithe plastic tubing was taped to an old arrow to get the discharge to the corner... Devcon Plastic Steel Liquid (B) Epoxy Liquid 500gm Kit
itwperformancepolymers.com/media/10854/tds-plastic-steel-liquid-b.pdf
Then reposition to do the right corner if desired Thanks John, I found some of that stuff on ebay. The de-rusting process is likely to end up in pin holes in some areas which have rusted. This was certainly the case on my 250, which didn't leak before I de-rusted it. As I never lined it I can see it's fairly rust free inside & I'm confident the soldered repair will last. The 400N tank is a different matter, I'm surprised the araldite has lasted 5 years & I don't want to solder it 'cos of the lining in the tank, so a bit of this stuff on the inside would be an extra precaution. I got a replacement tank in good condition off Crouchy, painted it & had it laquered, but the repaired original doesn't look too bad, so I'm keeping the good tank as a spare.
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Post by na44superdream on Feb 9, 2021 23:17:30 GMT
Yes, ethanol fear is making me take a similar course, the original tank from my CB250NA is stored, and its Stage double with original decals, and painted inside with tapox is lined up to get fitted, or I'll re-decal the one that's on.
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Post by bigginger on Feb 15, 2021 22:06:19 GMT
I’m going to remove my tank tomorrow and drain it so I can get a better look at the rust. I can’t find a suitable replacement. Is there anything I can fit in terms of a “universal” tank? I’m stuck for ideas. If I can’t fix this tank then my options seem limited. Second hand tanks that are in good condition seem rare.
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Post by bigginger on Feb 15, 2021 22:14:57 GMT
Oh, btw, will draining the tank and leaving it to one side speed up the rust process? It will be in the dry.
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Post by bigginger on Feb 16, 2021 0:02:29 GMT
Oh! And does anyone know the colour code for my bike?
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stevegbr
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Post by stevegbr on Feb 16, 2021 6:38:43 GMT
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Post by bigginger on Feb 16, 2021 7:54:48 GMT
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Post by na44superdream on Feb 16, 2021 13:19:57 GMT
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Post by bigginger on Feb 16, 2021 15:52:37 GMT
I was planning on using this. I may order tonight.
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ezio
New Member
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Post by ezio on Aug 21, 2021 9:05:06 GMT
The world has moved on technically ,tank sealants do work. in my experience WAGNERS with its rust converter. important to follow instructions to the letter, I have used it on BSA AJS DUCATI and many others with great results PS. I have a jig fitted to cement mixer so tank rotates with nuts and bolts inside [count these in and out] can fill small holes ,HOPE THIS HELPS ezio
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ezio
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Post by ezio on Aug 21, 2021 9:18:38 GMT
Just to add I find cling film great to wrap and protect paint work then wrap in plastic bag tape up, will prevent accidental damage .ezio
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Post by BruceB on Sept 2, 2021 23:10:22 GMT
Old money coke has phosphoric acid it in which is essentially rust remover, the new sugar free version doesn't. I have been caught out by the introduction of ethanol on an older treated tank on my bantam, it all came away and blocked the carb when ethanol appeared. I have done the cement mixer trick but I strapped it to the front on a board and used gravel, worked a treat.
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